We started the walk behind Penn Station on 34th Street where
low cost interstate coaches pick up their passengers close to the Hudson
River. A broad ramp follows the old train
tracks which took the line away from street level where many level crossings
had become so dangerous by 1924 that 11th Avenue was called ‘Death Avenue’. The tracks have been carefully filled in for
pedestrian safety along its entire length and generally half the original line
is either left to nature or else planted out.
The line actually went through a number of buildings, rather like the
old monorail in Sydney. Since this
virtual slum has now come alive again in recent years as a popular area there
are many new buildings either completed or under construction. Each has to give due deference to the High
Line, some over it, others beside it with one even overhanging it in a vary,
precarious and extraordinary way. At one
stage the line deviates slightly to go around a mid-19th century
building.
From two sections of the walk there are spectacular views of the mighty
Hudson River with Hoboken and Jersey City in the distance. Among the meandering tourists by chance we
ran into two groups of Australians, noting the accent (or lack of it) as they
were doing exactly what we were, from curiosity. There are many cafés, markets and other shops
on the east side of the Greenwich Village end of the line and the new Whitney
Museum to the west, next to the Hudson River.
It is worth a look at the extraordinary Enzo Piano designed building
housing American art.
The project is most interesting and clearly very popular and one has to
be impressed at the enormous amount of conservation work which has been
done. My disappointment over the lack of
labels on the plants was muted by a later web search revealing a detailed list
of photographs of the monthly blooms complete with Latin and common names. There were limited covered areas with eating
and in high summer I could see this being very hot indeed. Yet there are exits every few streets, most
with elevators, so one can walk for a few streets or the entire length as
desired. There is one area where souvenirs
and memorabilia was sold. There are also
some small 'lay-bys' and good toilet facilities.
It was great to see the old train tracks, rails, points, sleepers and
third rail (not clear why since it was never electrified). But I am a railways enthusiast and would have
loved to see even just one old goods car, engine or shunter.
But despite my reservations, the walk is free, it is healthy and gives
one a perspective on the history of our transport from horses to ship to rail
and now to the air.
Notes by Andrew Byrne ..
