Sunday, April 19, 2015

High Line, New York reclaimed goods railway urban project - final sections open 2015

The New York High Line is a fascinating urban reclamation project and is now fully open from 34th Street to Horatio St and 11th Avenue, Greenwich Village, south-west Manhattan.  It is a 3km section of an elevated goods line abandoned in the 1960s. 
 
We started the walk behind Penn Station on 34th Street where low cost interstate coaches pick up their passengers close to the Hudson River.  A broad ramp follows the old train tracks which took the line away from street level where many level crossings had become so dangerous by 1924 that 11th Avenue was called ‘Death Avenue’.  The tracks have been carefully filled in for pedestrian safety along its entire length and generally half the original line is either left to nature or else planted out. 
 
The line actually went through a number of buildings, rather like the old monorail in Sydney.  Since this virtual slum has now come alive again in recent years as a popular area there are many new buildings either completed or under construction.  Each has to give due deference to the High Line, some over it, others beside it with one even overhanging it in a vary, precarious and extraordinary way.  At one stage the line deviates slightly to go around a mid-19th century building. 
 
From two sections of the walk there are spectacular views of the mighty Hudson River with Hoboken and Jersey City in the distance.  Among the meandering tourists by chance we ran into two groups of Australians, noting the accent (or lack of it) as they were doing exactly what we were, from curiosity.  There are many cafés, markets and other shops on the east side of the Greenwich Village end of the line and the new Whitney Museum to the west, next to the Hudson River.  It is worth a look at the extraordinary Enzo Piano designed building housing American art. 
 
The project is most interesting and clearly very popular and one has to be impressed at the enormous amount of conservation work which has been done.  My disappointment over the lack of labels on the plants was muted by a later web search revealing a detailed list of photographs of the monthly blooms complete with Latin and common names.  There were limited covered areas with eating and in high summer I could see this being very hot indeed.  Yet there are exits every few streets, most with elevators, so one can walk for a few streets or the entire length as desired.  There is one area where souvenirs and memorabilia was sold.  There are also some small 'lay-bys' and good toilet facilities. 
 
It was great to see the old train tracks, rails, points, sleepers and third rail (not clear why since it was never electrified).  But I am a railways enthusiast and would have loved to see even just one old goods car, engine or shunter. 
 
But despite my reservations, the walk is free, it is healthy and gives one a perspective on the history of our transport from horses to ship to rail and now to the air. 
 
Notes by Andrew Byrne ..

 

Thursday, April 16, 2015

New York welcomes Aussies in April 2015

Dear Colleagues, friends and family,
 
New York this April has provided the weather, cultural and medical attributes hard to find anywhere else on earth.  In just two weeks I have attended five operas, two museums, three teaching hospitals and the John Jay College for Criminal Justice.  I have ‘run into’ a very prominent Australian politician ‘in the street’ (and said hello, of course!).  I was able to welcome a young Australian friend who is doing a Master Class at Carnegie Hall this week. 
 
Constant criticism of the quality of opera in New York from various ‘experts’ seems out of place to me when the cast lists include some of the greatest names in the field of singing, conducting, direction, etc.  Everyone is trying to explain why opera audiences are dwindling … but the same thing is happening elsewhere and some companies have closed their doors as a result.  My feeling is that the Met’s problems are related to poor front-of-house services, food, drink, parking and rest rooms, each of which leave very much to be desired.  No matter how good the opera, if one’s memory is for expensive, poor quality food and drink with a long line for the toilet and other (in)conveniences, why not see the same opera in a cinema instead, and closer to home?  [just my tuppence worth]
 
Domingo was sick and yet the matinee performance of Ernani was probably better as a result (he is not a full-blooded baritone).  A later performance gave him points for trying and his fellow artists, Angela Meade and Francesco Meli were superb.  Mr Salsi, who replaced Domingo, sang Enrico in Lucia that evening as well, now a Met Guinness Book submission.  Only in New York!  Another ‘record’ this month saw our recent Sydney Faust, tenor Michael Fabiano, a Philadelphia resident as a wild card replacement for Edgardo in Lucia at 6 hours notice!  Cav and Pag new productions deserve three pages while Don Carlos was exemplary despite its length, darkness and complexity.  Aida, Merry Widow and Masked Ball to come! 
 
The snow drops are finished and daffodils in full bloom with tulips starting to do their thing … as are the magnolias, apples and pears.  The ubiquitous witch hazel and forsythia are in spectacular yellow panoply.  Kwanzan cherry trees are usually last to bloom and Brooklyn Botanic Gardens Cherry Blossom Festival is the final weekend of April - so ‘worship’!  In addition, a previously barren Central Park will be unrecognisable as a veritable shaded jungle by month’s end. 
 
Any argument about whether addiction is a disease has finally been resolved with the Rockefeller University experts.  I had said that I always avoided the issue, calling addiction a ‘condition’ rather than entering the debate about it being a ‘disease’.  I was told the proof was since there were permanent brain changes on PET scanning.  I pointed out that someone who learns to write with their non-dominant hand probably also has permanent changes, as do smokers, then finally my interlocutor agreed that she would not get her next grant unless addiction was a disease.  So even science is political in this country!  End of discussion. 
 
Food fad is Greek this year and we have had our ‘fill’ even without travelling to the Astoria homeland in Queens Borough.  The ‘carrot’ is that you live longer, avoiding butter and taking plenty of sea food … not to mention high calcium mineral water (like San Pellegrino).  Food review elsewhere. 
 
I will try to get some more pointers together as the Manhattan month meanders to a close … but no doubt, as my grandfather Harry Gordon Gracie wrote from this island in 1924, this is the ‘City of cities for me’! 
 
Cheers and best regards to all in autumnal Australia.  Andrew Byrne ..
 
Lots more in due course on my blogs … travel, opera and medical …

 

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Selby and Friends. 5pm Sat 7th Feb 2015 Burradoo, New South Wales.

Selby and Friends. 5pm Sat 7th Feb 2015 Burradoo, New South Wales
 
Program
Pärt: Mozart-Adagio
Mendelssohn: Sonata for Cello and Piano No.2 in D major, Op. 58
Smetana: Piano Trio in G minor, Op. 15
Brahms: Trio for Piano, Violin and Horn in E flat major, Op. 40
 
Dear Colleagues,
 
This would have been an impressive concert at London’s Festival Hall or the Lincoln Center in New York. Yet it was at Chevalier College school hall, a short walk from where I live on weekends in Bowral.
 
Pianist Kathryn Selby reintroduced violinist Natalie Chee and ‘cellist Clancy Newman with Aussie expat French Horn player Hector McDonald in four virtuosic chamber works for their first of five tours for 2015. http://selbyandfriends.com.au/
 
The concert was punctuated by detailed and fascinating talks by the four soloists starting with Ms Selby herself who discussed how the group chose repertoire. She has numerous rarely heard works in mind and then after discussions with the soloists it was usually easy to agree on pieces. They choose from the enormously varied compositions for piano and various groupings of other instruments from early baroque to modern. Despite this diversity there was nearly always a linking factor between the pieces. This time by chance she found that each piece had its genesis after a recent death in the composer’s family.
 
Next Mr Newman told us some stories about his composer’s many names. Jakob Ludwig Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy was born in 1809 (cf. Verdi and Wagner in 1813). His grandfather Moses Mendelssohn was a major German Jewish sage and reformer. He was the first to translate the Torah into German and worked to allow German Jews to be assimilated while maintaining a strong Jewish identity. After one of his son’s successful compositions Mendelssohn’s father was quoted “Once I was the son of a famous father, now I am the father of a famous son”.
 
Jews often say: “From Moses to Moses there was no-one like Moses”, referring to Biblical Moses and the sage Rambam (aka Marmonides). They could have added a later generation referring to the composer’s grandfather Rabbi Moses Mendelssohn who is often quoted in Yiddish quarters to this day.
 
In a remarkable turn of evens it was Moses Mendelssohn who changed his name from Dessau, his birthplace, to ‘Mendelssohn’ (son of Mendel) so it did not sound so Jewish. Paradoxically, because he had become so famous in the Jewish and wider German community the name Mendelssohn was considered too Jewish-sounding hence the son’s change to Bartholdy after converting to Christianity. Felix mostly refused to use this name out of respect for his grandfather. Furthermore , he was instrumental in having Moses’ rabbinical works published posthumously. The composer’s mother had died just before the sonata for ‘cello and piano was written.
 
Our violinist Ms Chee then told us about the Smetana connection (his surname means 'sour cream' in Czech!). There was a deceased child, another tragedy put to music one might say. He lost three out of four daughters as well as his wife, a train of tragedy hard to imagine. In addition, Smetana had been exiled from his home town due to domination of the Hapsburg Empire, working in Sweden at the time.
 
In the second half our brass player spoke about the development of the modern French horn. I note from Wikipedia that despite not being French at all, the name has stuck somehow, but only in English (it is known at simply ‘cor’ in French). We were told that although the ‘modern’ horn with three valves was invented in 1815, Brahms, who played the horn himself as a young man, refused to write for it, preferring the older version. This was far more limited in the notes that it could play, especially in the lower registers as, like the cornet, it depended upon overtones to step up to higher notes. Other notes could be attempted by partially or fully blocking the horn with the fist. This increased pressure in the pipes, raising the pitch of the note by a half or full tone by careful manipulation. Yet this necessarily reduced the volume, creating a strange scale of uneven notes … Mr McDonald demonstrated, playing a scale without using the valves on his modern instrument (APPLAUSE!).
 
No wonder the modern instrument is preferred nowadays. We were told that horn players in the time of Mozart would arrive with a ‘baby coffin filled with different sized crooks for the different keys’. And the composer ‘usually’ left enough time to insert the right ‘crook’ for key changes between arias, choruses, etc. "Woe betide a capsized coffin!" (MORE LAUGHTER). It makes piano seem simple. Brahms had also lost his mother just before writing this sonata.
 
On this summer evening concert there was a wealth of musical knowledge imparted as well as numerous humorous anecdotes, introducing each of the phenomenally virtuosic pieces .. they are all available on the internet, YouTube, etc, so no need for me to describe them, even if I could do them justice. http://selbyandfriends.com.au/
 
Ms Selby is still the genius of this enterprise. Her keyboard playing is exemplary and she makes it look easy. For the first time at Chevalier College I moved to the keyboard side, marvelling in each of the works her stupendous talent and professionalism. Mr Newman’s ‘cello playing is phenomenal and his measured fingering and manipulation of his magnificent instrument was a marvel to behold as he stared out into the audience. Likewise Ms Chee who again showed her prodigious talents to this privileged audience. Each of the pieces was technically as difficult, if not as long, as a concerto … and there were four pieces in a row! Some feat for the ever-present pianist! Mr McDonald only played in the Brahms piece which occupied the second half. Mr Newman sat with the audience to hear the horn, piano and violin trio. One can only wonder what Brahms would have made of this piece if he had written it for the modern French horn.
 
The audience seemed delighted with both the pre-music repartee and the main features. For me the Mendelssohn was the take-home splendour … but others will say that I am biased.
 
Notes by Andrew Byrne ..
 
http://andrewsopera.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/schuberts-trout-comes-to-southern.html
 
 
 
 
 

Monday, January 26, 2015

Season greetings. Some postings FYI. Science, food, music and religion.

One of Australias great medical researchers Professor Sir Henry Harris died at his home in Oxford on 31 October 2014 aged 89.  Harris was hand picked by Howard Florey (of penicillin fame) for a career in medical research - and when Lord Florey retired in 1964 Harris was appointed to head his William Dunn School of Pathology in Oxford.  … read on: (published in this week’s Australian Jewish News)


 
Kylie Kwong's new restaurant in Macleay St, Potts Point (opp Rockwall Crescent) is called Billy Kwong, irritatingly the same name as her other venue in Surry Hills, started 14 years ago.   … read on:


 
Schubert's Trout comes to the Southern Highlands - final ‘Selby and Friends’ concert for 2014.  … read on:


 
A Semitic learning curve - enjoyable forays with the faithful - no secrets, no conspiracies.

Since becoming secular at an early age I have always marvelled at people of faith. Some are young, naïve and gullible yet many are also driven, intelligent and mature adults. And many are respected friends of mine, although they are far outnumbered by folk who would describe themselves as agnostic, atheist and/or non-God-fearing.  … read on:


 
With best wishes for the secular festive season from Andrew Byrne in Bowral via Potts Point and Redfern (Sydney).  

Monday, December 22, 2014

Billy Kwong, Potts Point. Frenetic pace but fabulous food.

Kylie Kwong's new restaurant in Macleay St, Potts Point (opp Rockwall Crescent) is called Billy Kwong, irritatingly the same name as her other venue in Surry Hills, started 14 years ago.  Allan and I ate there on the spur of the moment on the evening Sydney-siders would prefer to forget after the siege in Martin Place.  We were deflated and negative, even though we were not directly affected, unlike some of our lawyer friends.  So we turned to food and this restaurant only opened its doors the week before, following several months of remodelling of the old Arun Thai premises. 
 
Ms Kwongs food is extraordinary!  She uses traditional Chinese cooking, Asian spices and ingredients with some Bush Tucker elements, most notably Wallaby (farmed in Kangaroo Island apparently), salt-bush, crickets and king fish collars.  Her duck was the best I have ever eaten - being soft mousse-like breast meat with crispy skinned legs.  The soft parts almost tasted as if they were poached in butterscotch!  Plenty for two with bok choi in soy and steamed rice (but at a price, see below).  We had started with a bowl of diced ocean trout sashimi - delicious. 
 
Billy Kwongs ambiance is more like a plane than a restaurant.  First, since half the site was hived off to become a bank, the room is long and narrow with serious background noise and indirect lighting, like an aircraft.  Then there are six or seven chefs, each wearing communicating headphones with protruding microphone.  The large open kitchen has numerous stations which take up a third of the restaurant.  About half the patrons sit up at the extended wooden bar facing the culinary masters, Captain Kwong herself amidships and in control of the entire operation.  Orders from waiters are then translated and issued by the boss on the wireless headphones: Three pork! Two sashimi! Five chicken!  A parade of plates is handed out by the boss herself, each carefully inspected, plate edge wiped where necessary and handed to a line of waiters given individual guest numbers (we were 303 and 304). 
 
In places 301 and 302 were the patrons proud parents at their first dinner, having had the night before cancelled due to the cordon around Sydney and closure of so many roads due to alarming events in Martin Place. 
 
There was a definite camaraderie amongst the staff and patrons alike but nothing could possibly be called relaxing about this eating experience. It is the opposite of the elegant and sedate Arun Thai of Kham Signavong which occupied this site for many years.  Billy Kwong is half the width with double the number of patrons.  But that seems to be what people like these days. 
 
A nice Spanish dry white wine sent our bill for two to $180 ... a bit OTT but thats what it costs to enjoy what the SMH called Hillsong on chop sticks!!  And they gave it a rating of 16/20 which is perfectly reasonable to my mind. 
 
I will have to cook at home for a month to make up for the extravagance of the evening!  But such is the price of top tucker. 
 
Written by Andrew Byrne .. Redfern Clinic via Bowral.

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Loi Restaurant 70th Street near Broadway, Manhattan, New York City


This was truly a marvellous experience and much more than just a meal before a show (or an opera in our case). The tables and booths are well laid out to minimise noise. There were also private rooms. Two bearded waiters could have been models for the famous athletes on the Euphiletos urn at the museum. We were served by a wry witted contralto from Astoria. While she was making an enquiry about the readiness of the roast lamb we were approached by the owner Maria Loi who was delightful and forthcoming. “You must be in the fashion business you both look so elegant”. Quite a line … and she had a lot more, being the White House official ‘ambassador’ for Greek cuisine, and wearing the huge medal to prove it (and a presidential photo hung out front). The moussaka, lamb and beet salad were all delicious as was a dry Greek white recommended over the Retsina (“it tastes like gasoline” we were told). Yoghurt and honey were also very special. Next morning was Easter Sunday and they were roasting lambs on a dual spit on the sidewalk. We had been invited to come in for a champagne and some photos at 10am. One of the handsome waiters had become sidewalk cook while Maria seemed to be in three places at once as Greeks take Easter very seriously. Every passer-by was offered sweets and corn bread.



Saturday, April 12, 2014

New York - Central Park as spring 'breaks'. SECOND POSTING

Today is the day that New Yorkers first flock back to Central Park. It is the first sunny and warm weekend day since last autumn and they come in droves. They come on foot as well as on wheels. Strollers, skate boards, bikes and the rest … all out to enjoy the outdoors, surrounded by blooming gardens and blossoming trees which were all bare just a fortnight ago when we arrived. The first to come out are Witch Hazel (from whose slender branches witches obviously make their brooms) and forsythia, each small yellow flowers. At the same time willow trees are already starting to come into leaf as the last snows are melting and daffodils are pushing their buds upwards.


Fountain and boat lake.
 


Belvedere Castle, Central Park

 

Sunday, April 6, 2014

New York March-April 2014

New York City trip Thursday March 27th 2014

We had a long but pleasant flight with the Qantas A380 across the Pacific then connection with AA for JFK where we arrived on time at 8.30pm. This second flight was on a brand new Airbus A321T with fully reclining seats in business, excellent food and audio-visual. Interestingly there was no indication on board that I could see that the plane was not American. Even the emergency instructions had “A321T” but no mention of Airbus Industries, France or other indication it was foreign made. I think that Americans may be the most nationalistic people and the lack of foreign designation may have been purposeful so as not to offend some of their regular ‘travelers’. There are US flags everywhere one looks. Nothing wrong with some nationalism, yet at a certain point it evokes serious superiority, something quite unnecessary and inappropriate with one example of a country with just as many good points just to its north, not to mention all the others.

Now in New York it is almost impossible to go out for a day and not see/hear/witness something absolutely incredible. It becomes clear why photographers, poets, writers, cinematographers and others gain such inspiration from this city.

This trip has been no different … weather is an important factor and out of our first week we have had two perfect, blue-sky windless days .. with rain, wind and cold on some other days … but they have their joys too, of course. We had a nasty storm one afternoon and we noted a black umbrella lodged high in an otherwise bare tree next to our brown-stone lodgings. By the time I got the camera out it had gone, blown to another vantage no doubt.

There was a pile of remnant snow in Central Park near the main central avenue where some amateur acrobats were performing incredible feats both together and singly to a gathering crowd. They asked for three children from the crowd to volunteer for a feat of daring. Then the host asked out loud if any of the volunteers’ fathers were attorneys. Then after asking for silence, one of them took a running leap and did a massive somersault over the heads of the children … to the great mirth of the crowd (and probably terror of the petrified youngsters). See the amazing action-photo c/o Allan. 


Acrobats at work - leaping somersault over three volunteer children

 Busy market 80th St and Columbus Avenue
 
Grey 'Canadian' geese in Central Park

Tortoises basking in Central Park



I always marvel at the choice of foods available here. By my second trip back from the smallgoods and fruit shops I had obtained a packet of ‘duck bacon’, osso irati and izaru sheep’s milk cheeses, Taleggio chunk, black truffle and liver paté, spiced dried Moroccan olives, Niçoise olives, dried nectarines, giant roasted cashews, Tanqueray Malacca gin (in a clear bottle), Godiva dark plain chocolate bar, hot-smoked cutlet of salmon, caserecce dried pasta (gemelli), custom dried bean mix, Iberico jamon, smoked beef ribs … I could go on!  

I was waiting for the local train at 8th St on our second day while carrying my cache of cheap grog. Suddenly, the "via local" train shot through at high speed ... much to the consternation of a platform of stunned would-be passengers who had never seen such a thing. One voluble black man hooted as the train disappeared down the tunnel towards Washington Square: "So, you donna like this station, heir?" Another ten minutes and we were on our way. I felt a bit like Falstaff, lacking any assistants, carting my own sherry sack!

Being only 5 short blocks from the Lincoln Center, in the first ten days we had been to La Sonnambula twice, a dress rehearsal of Arabella and a performance of Andrea Chenier. We also heard a historic event on the radio in which an indisposed Mimi was replaced on a Saturday HD broadcast by a soprano, Kristine Opolais who had just sung a performance of Madama Butterfly the night before … a phenomenal feat in any elite athlete’s language.

It was a great pleasure to catch up with an old school friend and his wife who live in the big apple. They are on a health kick after watching a video of the benefits of a vegan diet. Everyone here has some fad or other and my delectation to gate-crashing mosques and synagogues is not as bizarre as it might be considered elsewhere (although one has to concede it is pretty bizarre - and nowhere in the world better to do so than New York).

Allan has secured some bargains in the clothing and fragrance departments while I have crammed in two specialist lectures at NYU, on ‘decarcertion’ and decriminalisation of drugs; Bellevue Hospital resident presentations and VA Hospital in Brooklyn where I gave a description of our practice and results of a recent survey we conducted concerning choice of medication and hepatitis C. Also Columbia and Rockefeller University visits.  More about them on my medical blog in due course.

More anon if anyone is interested when time permits.

Monday, January 27, 2014

Homage to a prolific Satsuma blood plum tree.

Back at home in Burradoo near Bowral: A small amount of care, pruning and fertilizing has been rewarded with a crop of hundreds and hundreds of blood plums.  Located in a narrow garden between a brick wall, a hedge and our driveway, this magnificent tree has surpassed all expectations and given us at least ten fold what it did the year before. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Now I know why many ancient races have rites and rules about trees.  The Jews have a special day for New Year for trees as well as numerous strictures about when to harvest and never to destroy a fruiting tree, even in war. 
 
We have managed to harvest tens of kilograms of these beautiful, large 'blood plums' in the middle of January - some we have given away, some are now jam, compote or plum cake (see photos - recipes on request). 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Monday, January 20, 2014

Jenolan Caves with spectacular new lighting.

Dear Friends and colleagues,

In order to avoid the lime-light on the surface I determined to spend my 60th birthday underground at Jenolan Caves on Sunday 19th January 2014.  The party was 'crashed' by my sisters Mindy and Marguerite with their partners Peter Hay and Cameron Elwin plus the three Elwin children.  And it was great fun for all. 


Peter Hay (green) Mindy Byrne (blue) and Andy (?focus).
Orient Cave - 'Twelve Apostles' at bottom left

































The Orient Cave takes 90 minutes to see three enormous chambers from many different vantage points.  Named after the exotic points in the Orient, Persia, Egypt and India, these chasms are up to 45 metres high with magnificent adornments including stalagmites, stalactites, columns, flow stone, shawls and all manner of combinations of limestone formations.

By chance my family was visiting Jenolan Caves when President Kennedy was shot in Dallas in November 1963.  As a nine year old my memory was more of the change in the adults' behaviour after the newspaper truck arrived about 11.30am when the news went around the public bar where people were having pre-lunch drinks.  The caves themselves were the same, of course, after 40 million years ... however, the new LED spotlights and stainless steel railings do make a significant improvement on the old.                                            
 
Andrew and Allan
 
Helictites



Andrew and Mindy Byrne
 
Lilla and Audrey Elwin

Lil, Aud and Cameron Elwin
 
 Orient shawl, the symbol of Jenolan
 
Andrew Byrne aged 60
 
Jenolan Caves House (1904)

Carlotta Arch ten minute walk from hotel and Grand Arch.
 
Marguerite (Doll), Felix and Cameron back in Sydney

Monday, December 30, 2013

Happy New Year for 2014 to all our friends and colleagues!


This has been a good year.  Bowral and Kings Cross are such a contrast, each with their attractions. 

We have 'discovered' some new foodie places including Fu Manchu and Bourbon restaurants in Kings Cross; Exeter Studio, Biota and Burrawang General Store eateries in the Highlands.  Jamon Iberico and Tetsuya’s truffle salt have been new taste introductions.  

The surgery at Redfern ticks along with about 150 patients in current treatment.  Most are grateful and responsive people with serious problems, some now dealing with life's middle age obstacles, children, grand-children, businesses, overseas travel, arthritis and the like.  The challenges have included street drugs such as 'ice' (crystal methamphetamine) and prescribed drugs such as Xanax (which should have been taken off the market years ago in my view and has now been made a restricted drug).  Alcohol is still probably number one problem. 

Accreditation remains a ludicrous farce but cannot be criticised publicly, despite the flaws in the health care system which are documented almost daily in the press.  Since it was introduced bad clinics remain bad clinics and good clinics have either remained good or else closed down. 

Here are some photos I took from the train to show the remarkable recovery of the forest after the terrible bush fires recently. 


 
 
 
 
 

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Spring was late in New York! March 2013


Trip to New York March 11 to April 6 2013

We could just see the very first hints of spring in Central Park with snow-drops and witch hazel (‘winter bloom’) starting to flower.  Otherwise bare, cold and windswept … yet the sun is out and we know the daffodils, tulips, blossom trees, etc will all have done their thing by the time we leave in a month.  There was a small pile of dirty snow on the edge of the JFK tarmac, reminder of a recent blizzard. 

On arrival at the flat with two bags of groceries I put some dried beans into water.  Once they had hydrated I cooked them up with onions, tomato, parsley and olive oil for lunch with toast.  Having the cooking urge and serious jet lag I tried to copy a 'schmaltz herring' dish using some bottled pickled herring from Finland.  It was not a success.  The original from Bondi had tasty, spiced, briny, fish pieces with red onion … but mine tasted like wet tissues mushed with fish sauce.  My boiled onion was like gyprock pieces, the sauce like spent engine oil and bay leaf turned to sandpaper.  Maybe the whole thing is a Jewish plot to fool outsiders.
 
Another experiment, this time with a plantain was more successful (see below). 

I have kept busy to fight jet lag.  Having arrived in the city on Monday evening I attended a dependency meeting at Columbia on the Tuesday evening regarding "Brief Treatments for Older Problem Drinkers".  It was fascinating but there was an undercurrent that older people, like pregnant women, should really not drink at all and that any reductions in alcohol consumption was necessarily good.  I reminded the meeting of the research showing that modest alcohol consumption makes one live longer.  It was received with a ‘thud’! 

Then I obtained some very cheap seats for Don Carlo at the Met for the Wednesday.  I have better seats for the Saturday when I should be more acclimatized.  Hence by Thursday I felt like I was quite exhausted and so just took a bracing morning walk in Central Park, bought some more provisions from Fairways and put on a Thai beef curry to slow cook as I took a snooze (against all the advice of the sleepologists). 

Wash-up from St Patrick’s Day at Lennon memorial, Strawberry Fields

New York is an amazing place indeed and around ten o’clock by a ludicrous chance I just ran into a close colleague amongst the hundreds streaming into the local subway.  My friend was as surprised to see me as I was to see him.  We shared a brief greeting and descended to the platform whence we took different trains, myself towards Astor Place to attend to some purchases.  No less than two other occasions in the first week in New York the same thing happened as we just ran into people we knew, the latter not quite as surprising as they were opera fan friends in the vicinity of the opera house … somewhat select audience, etc.  So there are ‘small town’ things that still go on in the big apple. 

At times the Met production of Verdi’s long grand opera Don Carlo was reminiscent of the Papal voting process which was going on at the time.  Some would probably like to bring back the inquisition and reverse it onto certain members of the clergy. 

The trip from Sydney deserves a whole review of itself.  We were upgraded to first class on the A380 with Qantas … I hasten to say NOT because we paid the five figure-plus fare, but through a pre-Christmas ‘sale’ on business class tickets recommended by our long-time Jewish travel agent, supplemented by some reward points. 

The first class cabin on Qantas A380 is a very pleasant place to be compared with the 747 where I felt hemmed in.  Furthermore, on the latter, the front wheel is directly beneath the floor, making for extreme noise and vibration on take-off and landing.  And the wheel retraction makes a nasty mechanical grinding, further vexing the nervous flyer like me. 

By contrast, the downstairs front cabin on the A380 is an elegant rectangular room with a dozen or more windows, four doors, two ahead and two aft and three rows of passengers across the wide bodied plane.  Even the toilets each had a porthole … and with a mysterious optical mechanism which could instantly turn a clear view of the outside into an oval of blue opalescent light – to no particular purpose (but perhaps privacy while still on the ground or else a French practical joke).  Forward of the first class cabin is a large vestibule, bigger than on a Sydney train.  This lobby also has doors to two toilets, a staff bunk room and the flight deck up a couple of stairs to the front, opposite a grand staircase to the business class section. 

This staircase rose to a private bar with red leather upholstered bench seats for about a dozen (each with lap seat belt).  The room is shared with the adjacent business passengers. The stairs at the rear of the A380 consist of a gated half spiral curve in the economy section.  Despite numerous ‘treks’ around the plane to ward off clots, I only once saw anybody using the lounge.  My fellow insomniac turned out to be a delightful second year resident doctor from Brisbane on his way to snow-boarding in Whistler, Canada. We chatted urology while the rest of the plane was seemingly under an anaesthetic.  As we spoke, an attendant came in unobtrusively and asked if we would like some food or drink. A Valium might have been more to the point. 

But first class starts well before take-off with an on-ground hospitality experience which is hard to beat.  Just where the sign separates business and first passengers, one enters a marvellous world of food, architecture, glamour and style.  A busy kitchen can be heard (and partly seen) with a series of connected formal and casual rooms to choose from, each with its own enormous skylight and vista over the airport and city skyline.  The curved entrance corridor linking the noisy clatter of the retail terminal with the tranquil first class lounge is lined by a sandstone montage of live jungle specimens including climbers, maiden hair, tree ferns, orchids, grasses, staghorns and other species forming a tall palisade of botanical rarities about 25m long.  


      Qantas first class lounge at Mascot Airport – large and classy!

In New York I managed some more semitic wanderings – detailed elsewhere for anyone who is interested.  One of the Muslims I met mentioned that much of the present misunderstanding was due to Islamic Americans not being visible enough in the media helping with communications.  There are some staunch, conservative Americans who still find it hard to take Muslims as equals.  And even after all the ‘troubles’, few westerners comprehend the perceived and actual wrongs done in the Middle East.  Starting with the break-up of the Ottoman Empire from Baku to Palestine in the first half of the 20th century, leading to the Russian and western invasions of Afghanistan, then Iraq and the rest.  Nobody expects a quick solution but some acknowledgement of our mistakes, like Vietnam and Korea, would go a long way to appease discontent amongst those in this part of the world in my view.   It is often pointed out that more in Israel might acknowledge the immediate previous owners.  Veteran Israeli statesman Uri Avneri goes further and says: “If Israel could just apologize for what we have done to the Palestinian people, a huge obstacle would have been removed from the road to peace”.  As an outsider all I can do is hope for peace and ensure facts and understanding prevail over the many casualties of war, including propaganda from either side.   



No 1 Riverside Drive Mosque - a brown-stone uniquely angled for Mecca.

On the way back from the shoe store I went past the World Trade Center site where two buildings are going up apace (and third has also started).  The Freedom Tower is truly magnificent and its companion on the diagonal corner (SE?) is also pretty smart looking.  Both are nearing completion and one might be over 100 stories.  I still personally still have problems with high rise of this size and their inefficiencies and lack of green credentials. 

                                Freedom Tower
On the subway platform where I changed to the 1,2,3 line (9 was destroyed by the 9/11 bombings) there was a man playing a Chinese violin (‘erhu’) most beautifully haunting … that WAS, until the train rattled noisily into the station.  I do not recall hearing this instrument before and it was just one of those New York experiences which come for free and to improve ones education.  I don’t think that this two-stringed fiddle will find its way into the symphony orchestra ‘any time soon’. 

Subway platform showing Chinese fiddle player with his music stand in centre.

I have now cooked my first plantain which was marvellous ... Initially I fried thick slices with butter and sprinkled with a little sukkar (‘sugar’ is basically an Arab word - and probably an Arab innovation).  Next I did the same thing with slightly thinner slices in corn oil ... until almost crisp, salt added ... delicious both ways ... and a third of the big plantain to go – maybe as filling for a crepe.  Contrary to popular opinion, they can also be eaten raw - as long as you catch them before turning black (according to a blogger from Belize).  I tried and was not disappointed. 

Other operas we are attending or have attended are Otello with Jose Cura, Francesca da Rimini with Eva-Maria Westbroek, La Traviata with Diana Damrau (and Domingo), Faust with Beczala and finally Julius Caesar with David Daniels.  These are all at the Met. 

Sunday 23rd March was a sunny if a chilly day in New York City.  My niece Tess and her fiancé are in New York for three months … I walked Tess from Strawberry Fields near the Dakota Building across to the Met museum and back across Central Park past the Belvedere and towards the Natural History Museum on 81st St.  We saw the beginnings of spring everywhere including lovely crocus flowers in yellow and purple coming up in the grass and low gardens.  At Columbus Avenue behind the museum numerous street markets were operating.  We ventured further down the avenue and Tess was last seen mesmerised by the dozens of stalls in a school yard precinct market selling clothing, glass, silver, semi-precious stones, ivory, etc, etc, etc.  Not to mention exotic foods, bakery items and more besides.  There was even one stall selling nothing but chandeliers!  We found a couple of small items and will catch up again at the opera on Tuesday at the opera.  Her fiance Lucas was up-state for the day, on business I gather. 

I reminded Tess about the Macy’s flower show which is on this week.  Due to renovations it is in the three-roomed pavilion or marquee out the front of the building in Herald Square … just another example (like our ‘opera on the harbour’) of large bits of scarce public land being given over to private use for the already privileged (but don’t get me doing on that issue!). 


We had a nice dinner with Tess and Lucas at a French Canadian restaurant, La Bonne Soupe, after a couple of other plans didn’t happen – such are the attractions of the city.  As they had left the MOMA nearby an hour before, Tess opted to read quietly in the interim while her paramour Lucas went for a walk in Central Park.  We had shared numerous phone calls and emails … I gather they are having a nice time living in Brooklyn (Bedford-Stuyvesant) for the duration of Lucas's artistic assignment. 

I blithely offered to get them tickets to an opera and Tess was hopeful of seeing La Traviata.  However, having Placido Domingo in it, it was booked out.  The famous tenor is singing the baritone role Papa Germont and I gather he is rather good (people who heard the live HD broadcast said so).  Despite the difficulties, our generous opera contact managed to come by two front stalls seats (‘returns’) and so we can give the youngens our old seats in the front row of the balcony which Allan deftly obtained on the internet some months ago, knowing we would be here.  So this keeps everybody happy (and we were not disappointed – see my review elsewhere).  

There is a New York ‘institution’ being a flocking to Central Park on the first sunny Sunday of the spring season.  It can be quite a mob, but a happy one.  It might sometimes occur in early March but sometimes not until early April in bad years.  But when it happens it is like the Sydney Easter Show crowds.  After everybody has been cooped up for the winter in their apartments they just love coming out with a smile, a book, i-pod/pad, towel, etc for a few hours in the world’s greatest urban park. 

And one of the best places to start a walk 72nd Street and Central Park West, right opposite the Dakota Building.  Once in the park you can see the Belvedere ‘Castle’, Reservoir, Boathouse, Lake, “The Ramble”, Tavern on the Green, Bethesda Fountain, Sheep’s Meadow, Lilac Walk, ‘The Mall’, Poet’s walk, etc. 

If the weather turns bad, one can about-face at Strawberry Fields and head the two blocks to Broadway and Zabars, Fairways, Citarella and the other wonderful provisions stores.  There is also the oldest Jewish congregation in America on 70th Street opposite the park, the enormous Shearith Israel synagogue. 

The first warm spring Sunday is very, very special to New Yorkers. 

More later about restaurants (Jean-George's, Asiate, Cafe Luxemboug, Sechwan) and Metropolitan Museum.  Also medical events at Rockefeller University, NYU, Albert Einstein, Columbia and Bellevue Medical Centers.