Dear friends,
This January there will be two full moons (the second is a ‘blue moon’ according to Wikipedia). Sydney’s tide charts show exceptionally high tides on 5 days associated with these full moons and other seasonal factors 4 weeks apart.
Fri January 1st (10am), Sat 2nd (11am), Sun 3rd (12 noon), Sat 30th (10am) and Sun 31st (11am) January. These are for Fort Denison but times and tides will vary elsewhere – check your local charts (I did a Google search for ‘Sydney tides’).
I believe this is an ideal opportunity to take children to the seaside, harbour or bay to observe salt water well above its normal level. It may be instructive for many adults too. In certain places the salt water is likely to reach grassed areas. It will cover some bathing enclosures and even some jetties and wharves. If there is a storm or squall on one of these days during the ~2 hours at or near high water there could also be flooding. Even storm water drains will be challenged with brine well beyond the normal distance from the sea.
As global warming progresses related events can only become more frequent and more severe. The short ‘economic’ and ‘political’ cycles in most countries discourage serious consideration of the changes we really need to make. These probably go well beyond anything being discussed in Denmark recently. Most scientists now believe that the earth is indeed warming and that it is our actions which are to blame. A few respected scientists apparently believe that we are already past the point of no return. Let’s hope they are wrong.
If you think climate change is a beat up and that there is a valid alternative ‘science’ then just watch Professor Plimer in a recent ABC TV debate. It is humiliating as he ducks and weaves, unable or unwilling to justify his statements on the subject.
http://mpegmedia.abc.net.au/lateline/video/podcast/r487279_2511551.wmv
Hence the need for robust debate and immediate remedial action, none of which will be easy. But the alternative spectre of rising sea levels is worse than any cataclysm the world has seen in the historical period.
Cheers to all … and try to forget all this for a few happy days ending 2009.
Andrew Byrne .. (Grumpy old man syndrome!).
[the first full moon is actually about 7pm Greenwich Mean Time on 31st December which by my reckoning is already 1st Jan in Australia]
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Hawaii trip a credit to JetStar. $341 each way economy, $900 business.
It is clear that there is a recession in the USA as Hawaii’s tourism trade is operating on half strength. But this means bargains, good service and opportunities for aspiring Aussie travellers.
Add Halloween, a nearly full moon, perfect weather, “Aloha” and the ever-present evanescent Esprit de Coeur of the Sandwich Isles … and you have Mardi Gras of the Pacific! See photos below.
Waikiki Beach was everything the tourist brochures had promised … and more. We had a dip each evening at sunset in front of the pink-painted Royal Hawaiian Hotel (1926) in the centre of the long crescent beach. The Moana Surfrider Hotel (1901) is the original classic resort (see picture).
Add Halloween, a nearly full moon, perfect weather, “Aloha” and the ever-present evanescent Esprit de Coeur of the Sandwich Isles … and you have Mardi Gras of the Pacific! See photos below.
Waikiki Beach was everything the tourist brochures had promised … and more. We had a dip each evening at sunset in front of the pink-painted Royal Hawaiian Hotel (1926) in the centre of the long crescent beach. The Moana Surfrider Hotel (1901) is the original classic resort (see picture).
Diamond Head volcanic crater is the prominent landmark to the east while the Honolulu CBD, medical faculty, Ala Moana Center, airport and Pearl Harbor lie to the west, making up about half of the south coast of the island of Oahu.
I spoke to a group of second year medical students, some health care workers as well as visiting a methadone clinic. We were taken to some high class eateries, galleries and special secluded beach spots on the north coast. A helicopter tour around the island topped off a most enjoyable week in Hawaii. The other islands will have to wait for a future trip. Highly recommended.
I spoke to a group of second year medical students, some health care workers as well as visiting a methadone clinic. We were taken to some high class eateries, galleries and special secluded beach spots on the north coast. A helicopter tour around the island topped off a most enjoyable week in Hawaii. The other islands will have to wait for a future trip. Highly recommended.
Andrew Byrne ..
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Quince jelly: heaven in a jar.
THE CHALENGE OF THE QUINCE - RUBY JELLY FROM HEAVEN.
by Andrew Byrne
Once each year, towards winter, the humble quince comes into its brief season. Once these fruit fell unused in Australian gardens. Now they sell for a dollar each or even more.
The quince is a true 'Old Testament' or 'Torah' fruit, possibly the forbidden fruit in Genesis since apples as we know them did not grow in the Holy Land. They are popular with Lebanese ('spherrjeel' in Arabic), Greeks and some Aussies who are in-the-know. In the hard times before Medicare, doctors would sometimes be brought a bucketful in lieu of fees or simply as a present. Some suburbs and towns still have old estates with prolific mature trees. But what to do with a dozen massive quinces?
Make jelly, of course! It is one of the delights of all time. And it can be made without too much difficulty by following a few simple rules-of-the-stove. One should select specimens without black spots - these are entry points for the worm which can occur in these fruit. Even so, being very woody, the affected parts can be discarded and the rest still used in the cooking. This is not so for poached quinces as whole segments are desirable. Quince jam (with pieces of fruit in a conserve) can also be made but the process is somewhat different from making jelly.
For jelly, after carefully washing the fruit using a brush and running water, the quinces should be cut up with a large, sharp knife, into 2-3cm chunks. Cores, skin, pips and all should go in - everything except the 'fuzz' on the outside. The total should be weighed as they will need approximately 75% of the same weight in sugar - which is added much later. Hence 1kg of quince pieces will need about 750g sugar, other things being equal (which sometimes they are not). This will partly depend on how efficiently you can strain your mixture and how much pectin comes out of the two small lemons per kilogram of quinces. These should also be cut small and added, skin, juice, pips and all, to the pot. The whole should be just covered with water and brought to the boil.
After simmering and occasional stirring for two to three hours they should be poured through an old tea towel or muslin cloth which is suspended to hang for the 2-12 hours it takes to exude its valuable, clear to pinkish liqueur. I do this by placing the cloth across a big colander which I sit inside another saucepan. The corners can be drawn together and then twisted and held in place by a pair of self-retaining cooking tongs (or Spencer Wells artery forceps). When cool enough, gently twist and squeeze the ‘poultice’ until only a dry residue remains. This is controversial as most recipes say not to do this “or else your jelly will become cloudy”. As long as you avoid any ooze from fruit itself you will not affect the quality and will increase the quantity by up to 25% in my experience.
The second boiling creates the jelly - and this is the 'risky' part. Gently add the sugar to the new saucepan and stock liqueur over ten minutes, stirring and making sure it does not boil over. It should now simmer gently for from 30 to 90 minutes while it is tested every 15 minutes for consistency. One recipe I have seen on the internet says that you will need about 500g of sugar for each 500ml of liqueur. Yet it also suggests placing the cold sugar in the oven beforehand which I have never found necessary.
By placing a few drops of the hot liquid in a small spoon onto a plate, the process of thickening will become clear. Once the spoon forms a skim and gel forms underneath within ten minutes at room temperature, the process is over. A small amount in the bottom of cup in the fridge will also confirm the process has succeeded.
When you are certain of the consistency, pour the liquid into pre-scalded jars or bowls. Once the solution has reached room temperature it may be impossible to re-start the process.
If you are the nervous or unlucky type of cook, you might want to use a pectin-rich product made by CSR called Marmalade Setting Sugar. This should be used for not more that 10% of the total sugar but will help ensure that the product sets into a perfect gel. If you use too much of it the taste will be affected (it becomes ‘chemically’) and it may also become frankly rubbery.
The final result should be one of the flavours made in heaven. It is great on toast, croissants or scones ... even ice cream!
by Andrew Byrne
Once each year, towards winter, the humble quince comes into its brief season. Once these fruit fell unused in Australian gardens. Now they sell for a dollar each or even more.
The quince is a true 'Old Testament' or 'Torah' fruit, possibly the forbidden fruit in Genesis since apples as we know them did not grow in the Holy Land. They are popular with Lebanese ('spherrjeel' in Arabic), Greeks and some Aussies who are in-the-know. In the hard times before Medicare, doctors would sometimes be brought a bucketful in lieu of fees or simply as a present. Some suburbs and towns still have old estates with prolific mature trees. But what to do with a dozen massive quinces?
Make jelly, of course! It is one of the delights of all time. And it can be made without too much difficulty by following a few simple rules-of-the-stove. One should select specimens without black spots - these are entry points for the worm which can occur in these fruit. Even so, being very woody, the affected parts can be discarded and the rest still used in the cooking. This is not so for poached quinces as whole segments are desirable. Quince jam (with pieces of fruit in a conserve) can also be made but the process is somewhat different from making jelly.
For jelly, after carefully washing the fruit using a brush and running water, the quinces should be cut up with a large, sharp knife, into 2-3cm chunks. Cores, skin, pips and all should go in - everything except the 'fuzz' on the outside. The total should be weighed as they will need approximately 75% of the same weight in sugar - which is added much later. Hence 1kg of quince pieces will need about 750g sugar, other things being equal (which sometimes they are not). This will partly depend on how efficiently you can strain your mixture and how much pectin comes out of the two small lemons per kilogram of quinces. These should also be cut small and added, skin, juice, pips and all, to the pot. The whole should be just covered with water and brought to the boil.
After simmering and occasional stirring for two to three hours they should be poured through an old tea towel or muslin cloth which is suspended to hang for the 2-12 hours it takes to exude its valuable, clear to pinkish liqueur. I do this by placing the cloth across a big colander which I sit inside another saucepan. The corners can be drawn together and then twisted and held in place by a pair of self-retaining cooking tongs (or Spencer Wells artery forceps). When cool enough, gently twist and squeeze the ‘poultice’ until only a dry residue remains. This is controversial as most recipes say not to do this “or else your jelly will become cloudy”. As long as you avoid any ooze from fruit itself you will not affect the quality and will increase the quantity by up to 25% in my experience.
The second boiling creates the jelly - and this is the 'risky' part. Gently add the sugar to the new saucepan and stock liqueur over ten minutes, stirring and making sure it does not boil over. It should now simmer gently for from 30 to 90 minutes while it is tested every 15 minutes for consistency. One recipe I have seen on the internet says that you will need about 500g of sugar for each 500ml of liqueur. Yet it also suggests placing the cold sugar in the oven beforehand which I have never found necessary.
By placing a few drops of the hot liquid in a small spoon onto a plate, the process of thickening will become clear. Once the spoon forms a skim and gel forms underneath within ten minutes at room temperature, the process is over. A small amount in the bottom of cup in the fridge will also confirm the process has succeeded.
When you are certain of the consistency, pour the liquid into pre-scalded jars or bowls. Once the solution has reached room temperature it may be impossible to re-start the process.
If you are the nervous or unlucky type of cook, you might want to use a pectin-rich product made by CSR called Marmalade Setting Sugar. This should be used for not more that 10% of the total sugar but will help ensure that the product sets into a perfect gel. If you use too much of it the taste will be affected (it becomes ‘chemically’) and it may also become frankly rubbery.
The final result should be one of the flavours made in heaven. It is great on toast, croissants or scones ... even ice cream!
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Manhattan in spring 2009.- - - - - - - - - - Wagner and cherry blossoms!
Cherry blossoms on Hudson River near Riverside Drive.
'Dakota' Building (72nd St) from Central Park near Strawberry Fields before spring had sprung.New York blog April 2009
We hardly like to admit having so much fun since we got to NYC late Saturday night. It is already Thursday and we are just back from a magnificent "3-course" prix fixe meal at Jean-Georges. However, as an added incentive, ‘compliments of the chef’ (or perhaps another recession-buster) we were also treated to an 'amuse-bouche' and petit fours. The former consisted of a 'test tube' of asparagus soup and ‘citrus’ (a tiny but flavoursome chunk of lime) accompanied by a china spoonful of stout prosciutto, mango and herbs. The chocolate orange peel, jellied cubes of both huckleberry and mango, made 5 courses in all, and one of the best meals we have had in some time. Needless to say the chicken breast on mashed potato with lemon truffle oil on basil and tarragon vinaigrette was splendid, as was the slow cooked salmon which made up the rest of this substantial meal. The cost was less than we have paid for many an inferior repast at US$35 fixed price (plus tips and tax). Such serious discounts stop by 7pm but quality dining does not! I was sent http://nymag.com/daily/food/2008/11/recession_dining.html by my internet-savvy nephew Hal Cullity from Perth, WA. This may be a little out of date from November 2008 but we found most of the specials to be still on offer although some establishments have closed down sad to say. Others have relaxed dress codes after decades of requiring ties and coats and also banning sneakers and jeans (at least in some cases for lunch - is the thin edge of the wedge for culture in North America?).
We had the pleasure of seeing that rather candy-box production of Elisir again with a fine cast including the Maltese tenor Joseph Calleja as Nemorino. He was a sensation. Other cast members received a polite and well deserved clap at the end. However, Calleja got shouts, cheers, bravos and the rest for what seemed like ten minutes. While comparisons are odious, his voice to me is reminiscent of the younger Pavarotti. A little less 'staccato' perhaps and with breath control of a rare calibre. One apparent high C (I will check) was interpolated into a duet and Una furtiva lagrima did not disappoint, either.
In the intermission we were spirited away to take dessert with some friends in the grand tier level restaurant which now seems to occupy half of the foyer. Lemon tart, chocolate soufflé, biscotti, etc were handed around and shared spoons in delightful company.
Falstaff was a student performance at Julliard for $20 on Friday 24th April 2009. Stephen Wadsworth was directing and Keri-Lynn Wilson conductor. It was highly enjoyable and MOST professional. In fact it was higher quality than much of the stuff we get from Opera Australia these days. The new Peter Jay Theater (opp Met stage door in 65th St) is most interesting – with some elements of Glyndebourne. The young singers were simply excellent, especially Jennifer Zetlan as Nanetta and Paul Appleby as Fenton.
Diary update: Monday 4th May.
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We have had some glorious weather with 2 days over 90 degrees (30) but now rain showers seem to have set in. We had one magnificent almost Wagernian thunder storm which is hard to comprehend unless one has experiences it … with the narrow streets and wide avenues of Manhattan amplifying the noise many fold and almost mimicking an earthquake rather than a storm. Nothing would compare with the Lord Howe Island weather we left behind, however, according to family members who were marooned by the storm there.
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The spring blossoms, daffodils, tulips etcetera have all had brief flowering seasons thanks to the warm weather. Some years they get curtailed by snow!! Spring is always the least predictable time of year in this part of the world. The 26,000 trees of Central Park were bare when we arrived but are now nearly all in full leaf.
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The city was paralysed by a 5-borough bicycle marathon yesterday. Some years it is a Papal motorcade or a famous Rabbi’s funeral or a visit by Nelson Mandala, Queen Elizabeth or some other dignitary. One might think that a major city like New York would not permit such intrusions yet in fact almost every street is closed off at some stage, for local fairs, markets, Easter Bonnet Parades and the like.
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The opera has been a Rhine journey in the form of Wagner’s four Ring operas. Over a five day period the Met presents the world’s last ‘realistic’ or ‘picture book’ or ‘fairy tale’ production, done by Otto Schenk, conducted by James Levine. The technology has changed so much since the mid-1980s that it is now unserviceable (some defects being quite obvious, others carefully papered over). http://www.redfernclinic.com/opera/critique/blog/2009/05/ring-at-met-aprilmay-2009.php4
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Apart from the Ring operas we have seen wonderful rising tenor star Joseph Calleja in Elixir of Love. The Met Don Giovanni was also excellent. Cinderella and Il Trovatore the following week were both splendid with an amateur performance of La Traviata on Sunday 11th. http://www.redfernclinic.com/opera/critique/blog/2009/05/cenerentola-at-met-may-2009.php4
More anon. Andrew Byrne ..
Friday, February 27, 2009
Wah Wah Lounge; Rise Japanese Restaurant.
13th Feb 2009
Dear Reader,
I have had two splendid meals in the past week. Lunch at the ‘Wah Wah’ in Danks Street, Waterloo consisted of a seafood lasagna for $18 while my friend had a chicken sandwich for half that amount.
About five slips of perfectly cooked flat pasta were covered with a pink, creamy sauce having just a little sweetness to its spicy bisque base. Between its layers were, from the bottom, a large thin sheet of ‘just cooked’ Tasmanian salmon, surmounted by a layer of habour prawns then of seared scallops (perhaps 5 or 6) - without the beards. The whole was framed by two symmetrical split convex halves of a delicious, tender garlic/butter yabby. There may have been some pieces of white fish as well … and the whole was a marvellous culinary symphony of the sea and not at all awkward to eat as one might imagine.
‘Wah wah’ is just down and across the road from the more famous Danks Street Depot but it is in no way inferior ... competition clearly benefits the consumer by keeping up standards while keeping prices competitive. ‘Fratelli Fresh’ headquarters is almost next door.
http://www.yourrestaurants.com.au/guide/wah_wah_lounge/
Shop 2
1 Danks St
Waterloo 2017 NSW
Phone: (02) 9699 3456
The Rise restaurant is a Japanese fusion cuisine with a 7 course banquet for $60 ($45 mid-week … as long as you book for 6pm or 8.30pm). Their establishment has had several previous incarnations including ‘Chez Oz’ in the 1980s. Despite its notoriety in high society, I never heard anybody pronounce it correctly (‘shay-zoz’).
Rise’s menu changes according to season and chef’s whim. There is usually a soup, raw fish dish ± oyster, pasta dish, cooked seafood (prawn in this case), tempura, roast meat/poultry, bean-curd and a dessert. Ceremony is crucial in Japanese eating so each course is brought simultaneously to the entire table while one of the waiters describes the food precisely in English with heavy Japanese accent. The kitchen is open and the ambiance pleasant. There is a garden area in what is essentially the entire ground floor of a terrace house. Its address is given as Kings Cross Heights … and after a brief walk up the hill from the Fire Station, past the old Stables Theatre, with the city lights in front of you, you know why.
I recommend the warm sake (in moderation, of course!).
http://www.riserestaurant.com.au/mainEn.html
23 Craigend St, Darlinghurst, 2010
9357 1755
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Trip to New York March 2008.
New York 29th March 2008
The United trip was smooth as silk and for once we even befriended a nice flight attendant … or to be more accurate, he befriended us. Having insisted on giving us extra champagne and made every hour go by faster on that ghastly leg to Los Angeles. The JFK connection remarkably was hassle free. I don’t know how they do it, but we continue our 10th year (or more) of paying economy fair of about $3500 and getting up-graded (on the day we book, usually many months earlier) to business class, always upstairs. This is priced on the internet at just over $7000 each way! It was a full flight as they nearly always are these days … we know, since a couple of times when things were quiet we went for a walk downstairs and right to the rear of the plane in an effort to prevent thrombosis in the legs.
On approaching JFK one gets a definite feeling of exhilaration and expectation, both for all the pleasures of the big apple as well as knowing all the things which can go wrong. The New York area is a watery wonderland which I still know little about. About 45 minutes before landing, one crosses a mighty river, presumably in New Jersey, and from there one can see bays, islands, long peninsulas, massive bridges (‘the cathedrals of New York’) and coastlines which stretch off into the invisible infinity. It is only towards to end of this grand arc that one finally sees the amazing skyline of Manhattan. We usually seem to land over what I imagine to be Fire Island, or maybe an extension of same. The airport itself is just about the geographical border between the NYC boroughs of Queens and Brooklyn with the start of Long Island which projects over 100 kilometres into the Atlantic. All we ever see of that particular “pond” is beyond the Verezzano Narrows Bridge from the Staten Island ferry … or from the shore if one takes the subway all the way to Brighton Beach or Coney Island (several major lines end up there).
Having taken a quick taxi ride to our new flat at 83rd St and Broadway (round the corner from Zabars food store) we went into a small grocery store as everything else was closed by 10pm on Saturday night.
We are staying in a delightful one bedroom flat in one of these classic 16 storey turn of the century (1900) blond brick buildings of which there must be thousands across the city. I think Will and Grace is supposedly set in such a building and in fact Riverside Drive is one block from here. I think it is one of the few curvaceous streets in the whole city, and of course its west facing apartments get a view of the broad Hudson River and the New Jersey coastline beyond.
The United trip was smooth as silk and for once we even befriended a nice flight attendant … or to be more accurate, he befriended us. Having insisted on giving us extra champagne and made every hour go by faster on that ghastly leg to Los Angeles. The JFK connection remarkably was hassle free. I don’t know how they do it, but we continue our 10th year (or more) of paying economy fair of about $3500 and getting up-graded (on the day we book, usually many months earlier) to business class, always upstairs. This is priced on the internet at just over $7000 each way! It was a full flight as they nearly always are these days … we know, since a couple of times when things were quiet we went for a walk downstairs and right to the rear of the plane in an effort to prevent thrombosis in the legs.
On approaching JFK one gets a definite feeling of exhilaration and expectation, both for all the pleasures of the big apple as well as knowing all the things which can go wrong. The New York area is a watery wonderland which I still know little about. About 45 minutes before landing, one crosses a mighty river, presumably in New Jersey, and from there one can see bays, islands, long peninsulas, massive bridges (‘the cathedrals of New York’) and coastlines which stretch off into the invisible infinity. It is only towards to end of this grand arc that one finally sees the amazing skyline of Manhattan. We usually seem to land over what I imagine to be Fire Island, or maybe an extension of same. The airport itself is just about the geographical border between the NYC boroughs of Queens and Brooklyn with the start of Long Island which projects over 100 kilometres into the Atlantic. All we ever see of that particular “pond” is beyond the Verezzano Narrows Bridge from the Staten Island ferry … or from the shore if one takes the subway all the way to Brighton Beach or Coney Island (several major lines end up there).
Having taken a quick taxi ride to our new flat at 83rd St and Broadway (round the corner from Zabars food store) we went into a small grocery store as everything else was closed by 10pm on Saturday night.
We are staying in a delightful one bedroom flat in one of these classic 16 storey turn of the century (1900) blond brick buildings of which there must be thousands across the city. I think Will and Grace is supposedly set in such a building and in fact Riverside Drive is one block from here. I think it is one of the few curvaceous streets in the whole city, and of course its west facing apartments get a view of the broad Hudson River and the New Jersey coastline beyond.
A trip to the last day of Macy’s Flower show on Sunday was a pleasant low-key event for our first day. A guide took us through the various planned “gardens” around and mostly above the sales counters on the main ground floor. I even took a video of some of it and only hope it came out since it was a veritable tutorial in horticulture. I was amazed (but should not have been) that the lilies we know as November lilies are called Easter lilies here in North America.
On the Monday morning we went to the Met and managed to get seats to every opera we had wanted to as well as one we didn’t (Satyagraha – something to do with the life and times of Ghandi and the Indian resistance I believe). We also managed seats to Candide and a concert by Martha Agerich at Avery Fisher Hall at the end of the month. Carnegie Hall (OONY) is doing Puccini’s early work Edgar which will be a rare opportunity to hear it, as with Natalie Dessai and Juan Diego Florez in Daughter of the Regiment. We just missed the Tristan broadcast and I still have not heard if it went ahead after all the sickness, stage accident and cancellations of the season, whether Heppner and Voigt ever actually sang together! [I have since found out that it was a triumph for all on the final night.]
I have always said since first coming to New York City nearly 20 years ago that every time one walks out of doors something extraordinary can be witnessed. Today I encountered the “Geese Police” in Central Park. We were just a few metres from the Belvedere ‘Castle’ from which all Manhattan temperatures are measured. The car-less roads of Central Park occasionally see a police vehicle or service truck - and sometimes one can be surprised by a silent electric ‘conservancy’ van (I am sure ‘conservancy’ is not an English word). A man with not a gun, but a trusty hound alighted from the truck which advertised ‘Geese Police - Call on us to get the flock out’. Right on-cue, two geese dived into the adjacent lake and made for open water as the attentive tracker dog was instructed to circumnavigate the lake. This involved jumping two fences which was done only on command from the master who never moved more than twenty paces from his truck, parked anti-socially if not illegally on the pathway to the Belvedere ‘Castle’ which is also a haven for children to climb to see the view. I took a video of the whole attempted cull which would make good court evidence if it needed. Happily on this occasion the pair of geese got away by swimming under the bridge and out of reach of the dog and master.
More anon …
On the Monday morning we went to the Met and managed to get seats to every opera we had wanted to as well as one we didn’t (Satyagraha – something to do with the life and times of Ghandi and the Indian resistance I believe). We also managed seats to Candide and a concert by Martha Agerich at Avery Fisher Hall at the end of the month. Carnegie Hall (OONY) is doing Puccini’s early work Edgar which will be a rare opportunity to hear it, as with Natalie Dessai and Juan Diego Florez in Daughter of the Regiment. We just missed the Tristan broadcast and I still have not heard if it went ahead after all the sickness, stage accident and cancellations of the season, whether Heppner and Voigt ever actually sang together! [I have since found out that it was a triumph for all on the final night.]
I have always said since first coming to New York City nearly 20 years ago that every time one walks out of doors something extraordinary can be witnessed. Today I encountered the “Geese Police” in Central Park. We were just a few metres from the Belvedere ‘Castle’ from which all Manhattan temperatures are measured. The car-less roads of Central Park occasionally see a police vehicle or service truck - and sometimes one can be surprised by a silent electric ‘conservancy’ van (I am sure ‘conservancy’ is not an English word). A man with not a gun, but a trusty hound alighted from the truck which advertised ‘Geese Police - Call on us to get the flock out’. Right on-cue, two geese dived into the adjacent lake and made for open water as the attentive tracker dog was instructed to circumnavigate the lake. This involved jumping two fences which was done only on command from the master who never moved more than twenty paces from his truck, parked anti-socially if not illegally on the pathway to the Belvedere ‘Castle’ which is also a haven for children to climb to see the view. I took a video of the whole attempted cull which would make good court evidence if it needed. Happily on this occasion the pair of geese got away by swimming under the bridge and out of reach of the dog and master.
More anon …
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
New York for beginners (letter to a London friend before her visit).
New York travel advice for the novice May 2008:
Food is not the main reason for going to New York. But in such a large city there is no excuse for eating poorly either. More about food later in another posting.
Your ‘tour’ should depend on your budget, how much time you have and whether you are EVER likely to go back there. The shopping in New York is fabulous: choices, sizes, variety and bargains. Macy’s and Bloomingdales are the top department stores and you could easily spend a day in each (but you would not want to with so much else a-happening). You can check most things on the internet but there is nothing like just being there and watching the “65% off everything for the next hour” sign go up! And when they say ‘65% off‘, they mean off the ticketed price which may already be discounted. People from out of town often get a 10% discount in addition to any other reduction - just go to the Macy’s Visitors’ Centre on the mezzanine level or the left side of the ground floor (called ‘first floor’ in America) at Bloomingdales. You might need your passport but just having an Australian accent may be good enough. Also worth a visit is Bergdorf Goodman, the classy department store on 58th Street and Fifth Avenue oppostive the Plaza Hotel concourse and Central Park.
New York consists of lots of villages, they say. In fact they are all cities within a city. Another determinant of what you do is where you are staying. In fact there are wonderful gardens, museums, zoos, etc in Brooklyn and the Bronx as well as Manhattan but you are probably best to concentrate on Manhattan in such a short stay.
If your budget is limited then you need to concentrate on the free things and there are lots and lots of those. (1) Central Park is one of the great urban parks of the world and a walk thru any part of it, any time, is worthwhile. (2) The Staten Island ferry ride is magnificent … but probably not necessary to stay any time on Staten Island as there is little of interest near the wharf anyway. Just turn around and catch the SAME boat back unless you know somebody on the island to visit. Get the subway train (Line No 1, the red one) to ‘South Ferry’ and make sure you are in the front 5 carriages since it is a turn-around station. (3) The Metropolitan Museum is a MUST as is technically free. They ask for a donation (recommendation was $12) and you must get a ticket/badge to be let into the galleries. You may say: “I’ve been here three times this week” or “I’m a poor student” or “I only want to pay $5” if that’s all you have. Or you might want to pay $25 because it is one of the greatest museums in the world. You cannot see everything but most people look thru EITHER the new Greco-Roman galleries on the left of the main entrance OR the classic old Egyptian collection on the right of the huge main entrance lobby. Directly ahead of the entrance and up the stairs are the magnificent paintings, ceramics, and usually one or two special exhibitions (eg. ‘Classy Fakes’ or Rembrandt’s toilet etchings, etc).
A more manageable museum in many ways is the nearby “Frick” collection which is about $12 entry. It is housed in one of the last mansions on Central Park and is a more relaxed 2 hour visit to see everything, including some of the most famous paintings in the world (on chocolate boxes, calendars, etc). New York has lots of ‘small’, specialty museums and it will depend on your interests which ones you would choose to go to. Jewish heritage, Mediterranean, Irish Famine Memorial, Medieval (Cloisters at north end of island is a branch of the Met), modern art (MOMA, Whitney, Guggenheim), flight, Holocaust, German (Neue Gallerie), etc, etc, etc. There is probably a museum of existentialist butterfly collecting! Just Google it!
Up to September 2008 there is an interesting (and free) collection of Minoan relics in 5th Avenue near St Patrick’s Cathedral at the Onassis Center. The entrance is round the corner (second entrance) from the jewelry store (which is probably also worth looking at) on 645 Fifth Avenue. Around 52nd Street if my memory serves me correctly. It is north of St Pats and Saks Fifth Avenue). http://www.onassisusa.org/occ.htm
You need to buy a Metro-Card the first time you get a Subway train and it costs $20 for about 12 rides then you top it up as necessary or give it to a poor person the day you leave if is has a couple of rides left (you pay when you get ON the train in the City). You can also get the cross city bus for the same price within the same hour. There are also deals for unlimited travel for certain periods and a monthly ticket may be a good idea if staying longer as this is only around $80.
If you are travelling with a friend, a cab is often about the same as two subway fares for local trips on Manhattan. The same coming from the airport (JFK) ‘cheap and cheerful’ - well it’s not that cheap, but it’s probably the best bet and the ONLY bet if you have a lot of luggage. Just wait in ‘the line’ (they don’t use the correct word ‘queue’). Americans line up just like the English do. Australians tend to scrum or ‘crowd’ instead. It is a fixed price from JFK to anywhere in Manhattan but you have to pay tips and tolls in addition to that. So what might be US$45 becomes about $55 with the five dollar toll and a (lousy, Australian) tip of $5 - they normally expect 15%!!). Note that the trip to Manhattan is also a scenic tour of grimy suburbs, bridges and the skyline of the city gets closer and closer. The view from the Triborough Bridge and Riker’s Island Prison (which you pass on the way) is spectacular.
A limo is about the same price, but the trouble is finding one is impossible. Coming back, it is a different story so just call 212 777 7777 and tell them the time you want (usually allow 50 minutes, more in rush hours) and give your credit card details and address. They are efficient, obliging and quick (unlike Yellow Taxi cabs who are usually impersonal, dirty and ‘hairy’ on the roads (but relatively cheap for local ‘around town’ journeys which nearly always cost $7 in my experience - as above).
If you can easily carry your luggage you might want to attempt the public transport to JFK which recently introduced the SkyTrain elevated railroad which connects with some distant Subway station eventually … and it PROBABLY works reasonably well but with big suitcases it could be a nightmare once you got into the Subway system.
In fact some of the best things in New York are the unexpected, amazing (free) things which happen almost everyday you go out and onto the street. We walked out our door one day and RIGHT INTO a film shoot of ‘Law and Order’ with the famous actor Chris Noth standing RIGHT THERE, chatting to our doorman!! Another time we found ourselves in a ‘goose chase’ in Central Park by some terrible exterminator mob call The Geese Police! Yet another occasion saw us walking next to a 5 metre high blow-up teddy bear on 72nd Street.
You could run into a street fair where the whole street (or more usually an Avenue) is closed off. The Pope or Queen of Sheba might just whisk by when you least expect it. So ALWAYS have your camera with you and at the ready. You will notice that the faces in the street are even more varied than in London (and they are more often smiling!).
Have a great time!!
Comments by Andrew Byrne .. (May 2008)
Food is not the main reason for going to New York. But in such a large city there is no excuse for eating poorly either. More about food later in another posting.
Your ‘tour’ should depend on your budget, how much time you have and whether you are EVER likely to go back there. The shopping in New York is fabulous: choices, sizes, variety and bargains. Macy’s and Bloomingdales are the top department stores and you could easily spend a day in each (but you would not want to with so much else a-happening). You can check most things on the internet but there is nothing like just being there and watching the “65% off everything for the next hour” sign go up! And when they say ‘65% off‘, they mean off the ticketed price which may already be discounted. People from out of town often get a 10% discount in addition to any other reduction - just go to the Macy’s Visitors’ Centre on the mezzanine level or the left side of the ground floor (called ‘first floor’ in America) at Bloomingdales. You might need your passport but just having an Australian accent may be good enough. Also worth a visit is Bergdorf Goodman, the classy department store on 58th Street and Fifth Avenue oppostive the Plaza Hotel concourse and Central Park.
New York consists of lots of villages, they say. In fact they are all cities within a city. Another determinant of what you do is where you are staying. In fact there are wonderful gardens, museums, zoos, etc in Brooklyn and the Bronx as well as Manhattan but you are probably best to concentrate on Manhattan in such a short stay.
If your budget is limited then you need to concentrate on the free things and there are lots and lots of those. (1) Central Park is one of the great urban parks of the world and a walk thru any part of it, any time, is worthwhile. (2) The Staten Island ferry ride is magnificent … but probably not necessary to stay any time on Staten Island as there is little of interest near the wharf anyway. Just turn around and catch the SAME boat back unless you know somebody on the island to visit. Get the subway train (Line No 1, the red one) to ‘South Ferry’ and make sure you are in the front 5 carriages since it is a turn-around station. (3) The Metropolitan Museum is a MUST as is technically free. They ask for a donation (recommendation was $12) and you must get a ticket/badge to be let into the galleries. You may say: “I’ve been here three times this week” or “I’m a poor student” or “I only want to pay $5” if that’s all you have. Or you might want to pay $25 because it is one of the greatest museums in the world. You cannot see everything but most people look thru EITHER the new Greco-Roman galleries on the left of the main entrance OR the classic old Egyptian collection on the right of the huge main entrance lobby. Directly ahead of the entrance and up the stairs are the magnificent paintings, ceramics, and usually one or two special exhibitions (eg. ‘Classy Fakes’ or Rembrandt’s toilet etchings, etc).
A more manageable museum in many ways is the nearby “Frick” collection which is about $12 entry. It is housed in one of the last mansions on Central Park and is a more relaxed 2 hour visit to see everything, including some of the most famous paintings in the world (on chocolate boxes, calendars, etc). New York has lots of ‘small’, specialty museums and it will depend on your interests which ones you would choose to go to. Jewish heritage, Mediterranean, Irish Famine Memorial, Medieval (Cloisters at north end of island is a branch of the Met), modern art (MOMA, Whitney, Guggenheim), flight, Holocaust, German (Neue Gallerie), etc, etc, etc. There is probably a museum of existentialist butterfly collecting! Just Google it!
Up to September 2008 there is an interesting (and free) collection of Minoan relics in 5th Avenue near St Patrick’s Cathedral at the Onassis Center. The entrance is round the corner (second entrance) from the jewelry store (which is probably also worth looking at) on 645 Fifth Avenue. Around 52nd Street if my memory serves me correctly. It is north of St Pats and Saks Fifth Avenue). http://www.onassisusa.org/occ.htm
You need to buy a Metro-Card the first time you get a Subway train and it costs $20 for about 12 rides then you top it up as necessary or give it to a poor person the day you leave if is has a couple of rides left (you pay when you get ON the train in the City). You can also get the cross city bus for the same price within the same hour. There are also deals for unlimited travel for certain periods and a monthly ticket may be a good idea if staying longer as this is only around $80.
If you are travelling with a friend, a cab is often about the same as two subway fares for local trips on Manhattan. The same coming from the airport (JFK) ‘cheap and cheerful’ - well it’s not that cheap, but it’s probably the best bet and the ONLY bet if you have a lot of luggage. Just wait in ‘the line’ (they don’t use the correct word ‘queue’). Americans line up just like the English do. Australians tend to scrum or ‘crowd’ instead. It is a fixed price from JFK to anywhere in Manhattan but you have to pay tips and tolls in addition to that. So what might be US$45 becomes about $55 with the five dollar toll and a (lousy, Australian) tip of $5 - they normally expect 15%!!). Note that the trip to Manhattan is also a scenic tour of grimy suburbs, bridges and the skyline of the city gets closer and closer. The view from the Triborough Bridge and Riker’s Island Prison (which you pass on the way) is spectacular.
A limo is about the same price, but the trouble is finding one is impossible. Coming back, it is a different story so just call 212 777 7777 and tell them the time you want (usually allow 50 minutes, more in rush hours) and give your credit card details and address. They are efficient, obliging and quick (unlike Yellow Taxi cabs who are usually impersonal, dirty and ‘hairy’ on the roads (but relatively cheap for local ‘around town’ journeys which nearly always cost $7 in my experience - as above).
If you can easily carry your luggage you might want to attempt the public transport to JFK which recently introduced the SkyTrain elevated railroad which connects with some distant Subway station eventually … and it PROBABLY works reasonably well but with big suitcases it could be a nightmare once you got into the Subway system.
In fact some of the best things in New York are the unexpected, amazing (free) things which happen almost everyday you go out and onto the street. We walked out our door one day and RIGHT INTO a film shoot of ‘Law and Order’ with the famous actor Chris Noth standing RIGHT THERE, chatting to our doorman!! Another time we found ourselves in a ‘goose chase’ in Central Park by some terrible exterminator mob call The Geese Police! Yet another occasion saw us walking next to a 5 metre high blow-up teddy bear on 72nd Street.
You could run into a street fair where the whole street (or more usually an Avenue) is closed off. The Pope or Queen of Sheba might just whisk by when you least expect it. So ALWAYS have your camera with you and at the ready. You will notice that the faces in the street are even more varied than in London (and they are more often smiling!).
Have a great time!!
Comments by Andrew Byrne .. (May 2008)
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